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Photos from -----> LVHC
Tell us how to act
Photos from -----> LVHC
Motivational terminology
Notice the lack of footprints on the steps. First one there.
Ended up at a spot I haven't surfed since the summer. I was alone and it was really fun.
I could stare at the ocean all day and never get bored. I'm not sure this picture even does this morning justice, but I knew my time was limited. Saw a few little waves rolling in, and knew the wind would beat it down pretty quickly, so I grabbed my gear and headed for the beach. Maybe I headed out too quickly, because in my attempt to navigate the drop at the shoreline, I realized that the one section was just a snow drift and consequently fell forward into the snow without my gloves on yet.
There were a couple nicely lined-up waves, but overall, I was fighting a losing battle. The tide was filling in, the winding was blowing out whatever swell was left and my body's core temperature was slowly dropping by the minute. I grabbed one last microwave after what felt like an hour long wait and headed it. I was still very clad to get out and get to have 1st all to myself at least one day out of 365.