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Another great thing about September: Checked one of the cameras at school yesterday and the waves looked surprisingly fun despite what the forecasts were calling for. Raced home and grabbed my stuff, only to find very fun, lined up, waist high peelers pouring in at the break of my choice. As one guy described them, "The take off is soft, but then gets very racy". Anyway, surfed by myself for about an hour before a few familiar faces showed up. Loads of long lefts to be had, trunking it, no leash, warm water and beautiful weather makes for a great afternoon.
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