I have a reoccurring dream. It's one I've had ever since I was like ten or eleven and was "bitten" by the surf bug. Basically, in the dream, I will be attempting to surf, but something happens and keeps me from getting away waves. In past dreams I've shown up with a board that turns to cardboard, a board that I end up realizing is broken just before I paddle out, boards that are too thin, waves that are uncatchable, unmanageable crowds, etc. Either growing up and getting in the water a limited amount of time had an impact on my psyche or a I have a fear of erectile dysfunction.
On a related note, fuck this time of year. The other day, the wind had died, swell was rolling in and clean lines were to be had running all up and down this stretch. Everyone knows that first look when its good: that first glimpse is better than any drug. Sitting in the water, there was little current, no crowds, bearable water temps, perfect walls headed toward the shore and the sunlight was fading more and more with every wave ridden. I felt like I was living the dream, but not in the horribly cliched sense. Instead, it was my bad dream come true. Squinting to distinguish the horizon from the water in the absence of light, I snagged one last wave that felt like it went on forever and headed in, feeling completely amped and disappointed all at once.
I took this shot on the ride home. Fuzzy, but some interesting colors.